Christophe Mineau

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Viola -2- Sides

Galerie Viola -2- Sides

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Viola -2- Sides
Table of contents :

gallery Viola -2- Sides

Welcome to the gallery Viola -2- Sides.

Gluing the corner blocks, made out of lime wood.

Gluing the corner blocks, made out of lime wood.

Tracing the sides line on the corner blocks with the template. Notice how the template is indexed on the mould using a pair of drill bits.

Tracing the sides line on the corner blocks with the template. Notice how the template is indexed on the mould using a pair of drill bits.

Shaping the corner blocks with the oscillating spindle sander.

Shaping the corner blocks with the oscillating spindle sander.

Planing the sides block. I plane one face each time I cut a side. The other face will be thickness sanded. the planed face will be kept outside.

Planing the sides block. I plane one face each time I cut a side. The other face will be thickness sanded. the planed face will be kept outside.

Cutting out a side. The planed face is against the fence. The blade received a bit of lubricating wax.

Cutting out a side. The planed face is against the fence. The blade received a bit of lubricating wax.

A quick setup for controling the side thickness. The white button is a blackboard magnet.

A quick setup for controling the side thickness. The white button is a blackboard magnet.

1.3 mm

1.3 mm

Setting up the thickness with a scraper after going through the thickness sander.

Setting up the thickness with a scraper after going through the thickness sander.

Laying out the sections on the sides. A string is used to roughly measure on the mould.

Laying out the sections on the sides. A string is used to roughly measure on the mould.

My bending iron. A chromed table leg, an halogen bulb inside, with its dimmer. A smaller tube on top for tighter radii. A removable temperature sensor for ovens.

My bending iron. A chromed table leg, an halogen bulb inside, with its dimmer. A smaller tube on top for tighter radii. A removable temperature sensor for ovens.

A shaped side drying on the mould. I love using inner tubes strips

A shaped side drying on the mould. I love using inner tubes strips

Another side piece. The counter blocks are tightened with the inner tube around a dowel that goes through the mold.

Another side piece. The counter blocks are tightened with the inner tube around a dowel that goes through the mold.

Side crown, dryed.

Side crown, dryed.

Preparing to glue up the sides on the corner blocks. A piece of clear tape is used instead of the traditional soap. Do not forget to cut between mold and counter mold to anticipate the separation.

Preparing to glue up the sides on the corner blocks. A piece of clear tape is used instead of the traditional soap. Do not forget to cut between mold and counter mold to anticipate the separation.

Gluing using hot hide glue.

Gluing using hot hide glue.

By multiplying the rubber strands, we obtain a considerable strength, evenly spread on the gluing surface.

By multiplying the rubber strands, we obtain a considerable strength, evenly spread on the gluing surface.

Adjusting the corner angle with the spindle sander.

Adjusting the corner angle with the spindle sander.

Gluing the complete crown.

Gluing the complete crown.

Unscrewing the counter mold.

Unscrewing the counter mold.

The counter mold is yet used to shape the bended linings.

The counter mold is yet used to shape the bended linings.

The linings sections formed on the counter mold.

The linings sections formed on the counter mold.

Hollowing the C mortise, with my mini bedan chisel.

Hollowing the C mortise, with my mini bedan chisel.

Gluing the linings. The cloth pins are strengthened with two rubber bracelets.

Gluing the linings. The cloth pins are strengthened with two rubber bracelets.

De-moulding.

De-moulding.

Draft drawing allowing to mark the slope of the side crown (38mm at bottom, 35mm at top).

Draft drawing allowing to mark the slope of the side crown (38mm at bottom, 35mm at top).

Adjusting the corner blocks height with a japanese chisel, and low angle plane.

Adjusting the corner blocks height with a japanese chisel, and low angle plane.

Holding the corner blocks with a double screw clamp.

Holding the corner blocks with a double screw clamp.

Rectifying the top plan.

Rectifying the top plan.

The back is not glued on, it is locked with the brass index\'s.

The back is not glued on, it is locked with the brass index\'s.

The linings are glued on and leveled flush to the ribs. In the C part they are inlaid in the corners.

The linings are glued on and leveled flush to the ribs. In the C part they are inlaid in the corners.

Shaping the corners.

Shaping the corners.

Rounding the edge of the linings.

Rounding the edge of the linings.

Using the knife ...

Using the knife ...

And the scraper.

And the scraper.

Everything must be smooth.

Everything must be smooth.

The finished rib crown

The finished rib crown

In the baroque style, inlaying a double purfling at the bottom.

In the baroque style, inlaying a double purfling at the bottom.

After scraping

After scraping

It's time for drilling the endpin hole.

It's time for drilling the endpin hole.

6mm, 1 mm lower than the center of the rib.

6mm, 1 mm lower than the center of the rib.

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