Slideshow

Bari Mando Body

Luthiery work

Mandolins
Quatuor
- » Baroque Violin pegs
- » Pochette Jacques Du Mesnil
- » Viola Charles IX
Woodwinds
- » Diatonic clarinet
- » Chalumeau
- » Irish Whistle
- » Breton flute
- » Breton bombards
- Techniques
  - » Bone Mount
  - » Long holes boring
  - » Making a key
  - » Pewter inlaying
  - » Conical reamers
Percussions
- » Practice set for the scottish snare drum
- » Cajòn
Miscellaneous
- » Making of a wooden case for Ukulele
Workshop
- » Enhanced Clamps
- » A two-handed gouge
- » Convert inches into millimeters
- » Finger planes
- » Instrument making vise
- » My Metric String action gauge
- » Purfling chisel
- » Purfling cutter
- » Radius sanding block
- » Resawing on the bandsaw
- » Soft vise jaws for the luthier
- » Thickness Gauge
- » Thickness Punch
- » Thickness sander
- » Toothed blades

Woodworking

Vintage furnitures restoration
Works
- » Plancha Trolley
- » Some works
- » Stool
Finishing recipes
- » Ebonizing
Wood knowledge
- » Wood and moisture
Workshop
- » Bandsaw blade tension
- » Carving platform
- » Centering calipers
- » Cordless drill to corded
- » Disk Sander
- » Manual feeder blocks for table saw
- » My branding mark
- » Push Sticks
- » Router plane
- » Scartch Stock
- » Scraping plane
- » Silver soldering a bandsaw blade
- » Spokeshave
- » Startup and blade tension
- » Tenon saw
- » Tenoning Jig

Woodturning

My Woodturnings
- » Jewellery
- » Bowls
- » Miscellaneous
- » Pencils
- » Spinning tops
- » Lamps
Woodturning shop
- » My tools
- » Telescopic hollowing tool
- » Transverse drilling on the lathe

Leather work

Works
- » Bracelet Aile ou la Cuisse
- » HDD leather case
- » Kitchen Knife Leather Roll
- » Leather Apron
- » Leather belt pouch
- » Miscellaneous
- » Phone Case N°1
- » Phone Case N°2
- » Steampunk watch
Technique
- » Breading
- » Lacing
Tooling
- » Diamond shaped awl
- » Edge burnishers
- » Leather Stitching Clamp

Metal working

Metal working
- » Wood and Metal Rings
Tooling
- » Engraver bowl vice
- » Engraver bowl vice
- » Grinding an ER32 collet chuck
- » Metal Engraving tools

Softwares

FOR THE LUTHIER
- » Frequency <=> Note
- » Inch <=> mm
- » Fretboard Design
The softwares that I use
- » Bigprint
- » Qcad
- » Photofiltre
- » Audacity
- » Melody Assistant
Android in the workshop
Some tricks

Webmaster - Infos

Recommend

Text version

Contact Me

To contact me

Visits

visitors

My branding mark

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Make your own pyrographing branding stamp

When you make a nice ornamental piece, and that your are proud of, you are naturally tempted to sign your master piece.
I made myself my own branding stamp, that allows me to sign exactly the same way all my pieces, in a discreet place.

Here is the result :

To do so, I first had to think about my logo.
You need to carefully think, because you will not want to change too often !
I opted for my initials, a C and a M laced together.
I have used one of my favourite softwares for the vectorial drawing, which is Inkscape.
I also dug the Web to find a nice font, that could provide me a pretty C and a pretty M, while still keeping "doable".

So I picked up the C and M, I transformed them into a vectorial drawing in Inkscape, and then I could distort them, and lace until I found a satisfying result.
I then printed a set in different sizes, with for each, a vertical symmetry copy, you will soon understand why.

The tricky part comes now : the making of the matrix for pyrography.
I used a piece of round red copper, approx 10 mm in diameter. I draw the symmetrical logo (yes, like all stamps !), and I started carving the hollow parts of the drawing.

This is not simple. I used first my dremel to bore the biggest hollow parts, and then I literally carved the copper with some custom mini gouges I made from broken little drill bits (HSS or carbide), ground in the desired shape.

You need to be patient, here is what it gives :

You need then to attach your piece of copper on the tip of a soldering iron, and hup, here we go !! and it works !!

Here is an application on a boxwood made instrument :

While I'm talking about crazy things, here is an other application of my logo:

It is the truss rod cover of my F5 mando. It is made of mother of pearl, inlaid in a thin slide of ebony, less than 2 mm thick.
You can believe me, it is sport ! (cutting the MOP without breaking, and inlaying less than 1 mm deep) ...

Voilà !
Buxus.

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