Pewter inlaid bombard
Bombarde B flat with a key, inlaid with tin

Breton Bombarde made in 2018, May . My personal design :
- Mozambique ebony,
- tin,
- bone,
- nickel silver key.
Further down in this article, you will find details on the making of and links to series of technical articles detailing the tools and techniques specific to the manufacture of wind instruments.
I hope that this information will help you to realize your own projects, do not hesitate to send me photos of your achievements, I will publish them here if you wish.
The initial idea
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The initial idea. |
The wood: mozambique ebony, stored for some years already. |
The bore and the roughing out the body
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Initial drill, gun drill, 6.35mm. |
Unfortunately, I broke my 3.6mm gun drill that allowed me to do a first drilling from end to end. |
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Check here for more informations. |
I operate in the following order: |
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See the article on long holes drilling. Here, I step up the bore with larger and larger drill bits. |
To estimate the depth required for a particular diameter, I use the reamer and a caliper open at the same diameter as the twist drill bit. |
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The stepped bore is complete. |
Boring with the reamer. |
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The bore ends with a slight flared zone, about 10mm long. |
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Roughing of the outer shape on the metal lathe. |
The cone constituting the reed seat is bored. |
Tuning
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Using a slider to mark the location of the holes, depending on the plan or model. |
I start with to a first tone holes drilling under-sized, so as to arrange already a certain volume for the chimneys. |
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The notes are then tuned starting from the bottom. |
Body Finishing Turning
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Turning, on the wood lathe, see a similar tool here. |
Preparation for metal inlaying. |
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The external shape finished. |
Bell
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First roughing out. Tenon for chucking. |
Bore an inner chuck grip on the other side. |
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Expansion grip. |
Boring the tenon slot. |
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Roughing out the general shape with steps, keeping the ebony left overs for later projects. |
This photo shows that the tenon socket does not open through. There is continuity between the flare area at the end of the body of the instrument and the bell. |
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Boring the inner main cone. |
Back on the wood lathe and refining in a more flared shape. The slot for the outer ring is machined at this stage. |
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Shaping the outer profile. |
The bulb that will serve as a ring to the tenon. |
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Turning the groove that will prevent the tin ring from slipping out. |
Carving and tracing for inlaying. See the article on matal inlaying. |
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The bell finished. |
The bottom ring. |
The assembly of the key
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Drilling and tapping for ball posts setting. |
Glueing the pad. |
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When the key is mounted, I reheat the cup, and we adjust, without forcing, the pad on the hole. |
Adjusting the pad to the hole on the instrument. |
See also this other bombard out of cherry wood :
Do not hesitate to react to this article in case of question or you can contact me also on my Facebook page.
Good machining!
Christophe
(PS I remind you that I do not sell my creations or my services, this information is published only for purposes of sharing and mutual aid for amateur factors.)
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Category : - Woodwinds
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